Sleeve anchors are versatile. They can be used for light or heavy-duty fastening so can be applied in projects such as fixing radiators in the home but also work for much larger operations such as securing the joists of decking.
These anchors can be used in a variety of base materials such as concrete, brick and block. The design of the fixings will determine where they can be used, with stainless steel sleeve anchors more suitable for outdoor, wet environments and zinc plated anchors for indoor, dry environments. Stainless steel is anti-corrosive, even in marine environments, whereas zinc plating can rarely endure prolonged outdoor conditions.
There are various types of sleeve anchor explained below which means their uses become more diverse. Other uses for these fastenings also include connecting light fixtures to concrete walls or ceilings, attaching door frames and securing electric junction boxes.
The strong bond between the fixing and the concrete is ensured by friction. This is why getting the installation of the sleeve anchor correct is crucial to the strength of the project. If there is adequate clearance for drilling the holes, the product can be left in place.
This allows for more precise positioning. The size of the hole is crucial. Anchor lengths are measured from underneath the nut and washed to the tip. To ensure proper hole depth, most hammer drills have a depth gauge. If not, wrap a piece of tape around the bit at the certified depth length. Then clean the hole.
This is such an important step before installing the sleeve anchor. It ensures proper installation and guarantees the anchor will have maximum holding ability. It will adhere directly the sides of the hole evenly rather than coming into contact with obstructing debris. Attempt to remove all potential dust and debris with a wire brush , vacuum or compressed air tool. These fixings are pre-assembled. The distance between wedge anchors and the distance from an unsupported edge of the concrete is critical.
Both of these distances are critical because the expansion forces created are cone shaped and the expansion cone of one anchor that overlaps with the cone of another will decrease the holding values of both anchor or one anchor if it is placed too close to an unsupported edge. Generally, the spacing requirements used by the concrete anchor industry are that the anchors should be spaced a minimum of 10 anchor diameters away from each other and a minimum of 5 anchors from an unsupported edge of the concrete.
Spacing closer will cause a decrease in holding values or there may not be any holding values at all. The thickness of the concrete that the wedge anchor is placed into is critical because each diameter of wedge anchor requires a minimum embedment. For the wedge anchor to reach its minimum holding values in concrete, it must be set in the concrete at a minimum distance below the surface of the concrete. The thickness of the concrete is thick enough to allow the anchor to be placed so that minimum embedment is reached.
The wedge anchor must also be placed so that it is no closer than 1. Wedge anchors are manufactured from different materials that are used in different applications.
Different types of wedge anchors should be used when they will be installed in different environments. A difference between the different types of wedge anchors is their ability to resist rusting. The zinc plated wedge anchor should be used in a dry environment where no moisture is present. In an environment where moisture is present, the wedge anchor that is hot-dipped galvanized should be considered.
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We don't need earthquake brackets but we bought a pantry from unfinished furniture place for our vacation house in FL which had NO pantry after the kitchen was remodeled by the sellers Had it painted to match the wall color and placed just around the corner from the fridge in small area by sliders to the lanai Because of the quarter round on the floor it would not fit flush to the wall-- My husband didn't want to take out the quarter round but it was too unstable especially with a toddler grandson around to leave unbraced He used L brackets but he placed them so that they were inverted- The top shorter piece lies along the top of the pantry--screwed into the stronger frame pieces The long piece hand DOWN behind and is screwed through the interior of the pantry frame into the wall Remember this was not level to the wall so he had to add a wedge underneath to help support the bottom end--not too much It is very sturdy--pantry itself was made out of wood with thinner veneer back--so husband made sure to screw into the framing vs just the back I think the people who did those brackets could have done a much better job hiding them from view Have you just considered painting the metal the same color as the wall???
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